Through its mandatory sustainability admission criteria, CPHFW has created a platform to elevate brands that prioritise material innovation. One such brand is DEADWOOD, a Stockholm-based label that, while utilising upcycled animal leather, has also earned recognition as a fierce promoter of vegan cactus leather and innovative material compositions.
Images: Backstage at DEADWOOD SS25 (Image courtesy of CPHFW).
The British Fashion Council (BFC) and Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) are aligning their efforts to make sustainability a mandatory criterion for their coveted fashion week schedules.
While Copenhagen Fashion Week is recognised as the world’s first fashion week to enforce sustainability criteria for brands, beginning with its first Sustainability Action Plan in 2020 and the introduction of the Minimum Standards in 2023, London Fashion Week (LFW) has been reinventing itself as a hub for sustainability and technology. This is of strategic significance, as the ‘big four’ polarise into a Paris – Milan rivalry, with New York struggling to maintain its position as a biannual destination.
The collaboration will see the BFC adopting CPHFW’s Sustainability Requirements, beginning with the implementation of Minimum Standards for showcasing at BFC NEWGEN shows in 2025. Following an onboarding and piloting period, the full adoption of these standards is set to take effect by January 2026. As BFC NEWGEN is regarded the world’s leading designer programme which supports the finest emerging fashion talents, the adoption of Copenhagen’s sustainability framework aims to define how fashion creatives will operate in the foreseeable future.
‘This partnership is a significant step in ensuring that sustainability becomes integral to the future of fashion. Together, we are creating a framework that empowers emerging designer fashion businesses to lead the way and contribute tangibly to a more sustainable and responsible industry.’ – says Caroline Rush, Chief Executive of the British Fashion Council.
Copenhagen has updated its original sustainability framework in 2024, expanding from six (strategic direction, design, smart material choices, working conditions, consumer engagement, and show production) to nine Minimum Standards that now include specific guidance on preferred material choices and restricted substances. The six original categories have also evolved from commitments to actionable implementation stages. The Additional Actions category has also been expanded to include 31 new criteria that address social welfare, body inclusivity, and sustainability claims backed by certifications, audits or verifications.
These updated framework were applied to brands participating in the official show and presentation schedule from January 2025. In a related move, London Fashion Week has announced a ban on exotic animal leather, also coming into force with the shows in January 2025.
While Copenhagen’s updated framework is directly motivated by the forthcoming EU sustainability regulations, such as the Green Claims and Greenwashing Directives, effective from March 2026, the joint efforts of these two fashion weeks signal a powerful statement. Together, they aim to position the Scandinavian and British markets as strongholds of sustainable consumption in a rapidly shifting political and economic climate.
‘This partnership not only fosters much-needed industry alignment but also underscores the unique potential of fashion weeks and councils to drive positive change within the industry. With the British Fashion Council, as an influential player in the global fashion landscape, we see a lot of potential to further amplify the impact of our collective commitment to sustainability,’ says Cecile Thorsmark, CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week.
This partnership is a cornerstone of the Institute of Positive Fashion’s (IPF) ongoing efforts. Since its launch in 2020, the IPF has been instrumental in driving the industry’s transition towards more sustainable practices. Currently, the IPF stands as one of the BFC’s most active initiatives.