Published on 01 November 2024. Updated on 29 April 2025 (footnotes added)
The short answer is ‘yes‘. While plastic is made from petroleum feedstock, the production process often incorporates various animal-derived additives. These additives are crucial for enhancing the material properties and improving production efficiency. As the fashion industry uses plastic to create everything from fiber to shoes, the presence of animal ingredients is more common than one might think. In this article, we will delve into the where and why of this. Brace yourselves – it is not as straightforward as you might think.
Before we start, it is essential to list the various types of plastics used in the fashion industry. Polyester is the most widely used fiber of all. Textile Exchange reports that in 2023, it accounted for 57% of global fiber production, which translates to 71 million tons1. As the magic ingredient that improves durability and resistance to every fiber it is woven with, polyester is integral to the manufacture of a wide range of fashion items, from T-shirts to jackets and bags.
Nylon, elastane (aka lycra), polystyrene (aka PS) are all sought-after for their elasticity and tensile strength. While nylon is mostly used in bags, active wear and hosiery, elastane is more widely used in sportswear and underwear respectively. Polystyrene, the most cost-effective and versatile among the three, is utilised in the production of clothing, bags, shoes, accessories, and jewellery. Acrylic is mostly known as a wool substitute.
Polyethylene (aka PE) has similar qualities to acrylic, and is used to make fleece, circular knits, coats, sweaters, sportswear, hats and socks. Polyethylene is also a key material for packaging, including popular poly bags and most e-commerce mailing bags as well. PVC (aka vinyl) is found in most waterproof garments and faux leather accessories. PVC shoes are a category of their own, known for excellent chemical and abrasion resistance.
Plastic polymers are fundamental components in the production of polyurethane leather (PU or ‘vegan leather’), although PU is typically not classified as a conventional plastic per se, due to its different structure, manufacturing process, performance characteristics, and specific properties234.
The inside job of plastic processing
Stearates, which are salts and esters of stearic acid, are naturally present in various animal and vegetable fats. Animal-derived stearates, such as tallow (beef fat), are by-products of the meat industry, and therefore more available and cost-effective compared to their vegetable alternatives. With well-established supply chains, animal-derived stearates remain the preferred choice for many manufacturers. This, along with higher prices of vegetable stearates, are the main reasons why the use of animal-derived stearates is still prevalent in the global production of various types of plastic.
However, growing awareness of animal welfare and health concerns associated with animal-derived stearates, such as the risk of prions in rendered beef tallow linked to mad cow disease, do provide an ever-increasing incentive for the manufacturers to explore and eventually switch to vegetable and synthetic stearates.
Stearates are used as lubricants, stabilisers, and slip agents that enhance the efficiency of the production process and the overall fabric quality. As lubricants, stearates are added during manufacturing to smoothen the fiber, thereby reducing friction and wear on machinery. As stabilisers, stearates enhance the durability of the fiber. Specifically for polyethylene (PE), stearates improve the dispersion of fillers within the polymer matrix, leading to reduced water absorption and preventing agglomeration. Their anti-static properties also help reduce static electricity build-up in fabrics. As slip agents, they reduce friction and enhance lubricity, preventing the material from sticking to metal surfaces during extrusion or mould release. And while it’s pretty clear that these qualities make stearates indispensable in textile production, the same principles apply to plastic bags and bicycle tires, as it is also stearates that make sure they maintain their shape under constant surface friction.
The outside layer of coatings, dyes, and sentiments
On top of the operational advantages of using animal-derived stearates, human history has a long tradition of using natural ingredients for coating and dyeing fabrics. This strong sentiment towards what is considered as ‘natural’ and ‘artisanal’ plays a significant role in preserving these practices and occasionally choosing them over more sustainable and cruelty-free alternatives. Historically, both lanolin and beeswax have been used to enhance durability and water resistance of fabrics well before sustainable and cruelty-free fabric coatings, such as plant-based waxes, synthetic proteins, and bio-based polymers were invented. Lanolin, which is derived from sheep’s wool, is often found in waterproofing and conditioning coatings. Beeswax has long been in use for its water-resistant properties, and provides a fabric with a glossy and thick coating that makes it easy to form and shape.
Gelatin, sourced from animal collagen, adds stiffness and form to fabrics as well. Casein, derived from milk, contributes to a soft and smooth finish and is also used as a sizing agent to improve the strength of warp yarns, alongside polyvinyl alcohol, starch, and acrylic-based sizing agents.
Synthetic dyes generally work better with synthetic fiber. However, the growing preference for all things natural is having a tangible impact on mainstream dyeing practices and preferences. And while we would always choose plant-based dyes over the synthetic ones, the mainstream marketing is quite persistent in promoting animal-based dyes as the healthy and environmentally friendly ones despite – or rather because of – their natural qualities. Dyes such as carmine (cochineal insects), Tyrian purple (sea snails), sepia (cuttlefish, brown), indigo (both plant-based and fermented with animal urine), shellac (lac bug) have all been used for millennia before the advent of synthetic pigments. Carmine, in particular, is appreciated for what is referred to as ‘unique vibrancy’ which synthetic alternatives struggle to replicate.
Unique qualities of animal-derived dyes, as well as their relative scarcity compared to synthetic ones, are the main reasons why they are still preferred in luxury fashion and traditional garments and accessories.
Getting it checked
Unfortunately, the rise of veganism does not make all new experiments align with the animal welfare and cruelty-free paradigms. Recent research has proven to be more focused on developing efficient, large-scale methods for extracting stearates from chicken feathers rather than vegetable sources. Over the past few years, the production of biofuels has utilised corn and sugar cane as much as animal fats for beef biodiesel and chicken biodiesel. Additionally, fabric softeners often contain dihydrogenated tallow dimethyl ammonium chloride, which is basically what adds this soft and silky feel to fabrics but is actually derived from the cattle, sheep, and horse industries.
For vegan consumers, it is crucial to be able to check whether a plastic item has animal-derived ingredients in them. The first step is to check for vegan certifications. However, since plastic, especially as a component of the final garment or accessory, might not be included in the initial vegan certification, the most reliable solution is to contact the brand or manufacturer directly for information on animal-derived additives or any additives in general.
If the additive list includes palm oil, cocoa, or shea butter, the stearates are likely plant-based. However, if tallow or other animal fats are mentioned, the stearic acid is almost certainly animal-derived. Additionally, ingredients such as gelatin, casein, lanolin, and glycerol, listed in the product’s ingredient list or safety data sheet, are practically indicative of animal origins.
Vegan product databases, such as Vegan.org, Double Check Vegan, and, last but not least, VFR’s very own directory, are invaluable resources for quick checks without the need for exhaustive research. Or better yet, just choose bioplastics derived from renewable sources such as corn starch, sugarcane, and potato starch over conventional plastics at every opportunity. Stainless steel, glass, and bamboo are gaining popularity as replacements for plastic in everyday items like straws, containers, and cutlery. As cotton, hemp, and jute also gain traction as sustainable alternatives to plastic bags and packaging, the spotlight turns to the ethical sourcing and transparency of cotton supply chains. To read more about cotton, check out this article.
Footnotes
- Textile Exchange – Materials Market Report 2024 ↩︎
- https://essentialchemicalindustry.org ↩︎
- Sources, according to which polyurethane is not classified as plastic:
https://gallaghercorp.com/urethane-vs-plastic/
https://volatilefree.com/is-polyurethane-rubber-or-plastic
https://custompolyurethane.co.uk/blog/is-polyurethane-a-plastic/
https://knowledgecenter.mearthane.com/polyurethane-vs.-plastic et varia ↩︎ - Sources, according to which polyurethane is classified as plastic:
https://www.gianeco.com/en/faq-detail/1/55/polyurethane-is-plastic-
https://newtecoat.com/understanding-why-polyurethane-is-plastic-a-comprehensive-guide/
https://www.sustamize.com/blog/animal-vegan-and-plant-based-leather-what-is-truly-more-climate-friendly et varia; ↩︎