Updated 03 June 2025
The basics are pretty straightforward – vegan footwear is made of everything but animal-derived materials. Then you get do dive into what ‘everything’ actually means. Here’s the guide.
OUTER LAYER
We do enjoy a vast availability of non-animal materials. Mushroom- and plant-based leather alternatives come across as the most innovative ones, and the developers are finding more ways to make them as durable as animal leather. Mushroom leather alternatives such MuSkin, developed by Life Materials, hold big promises on durability without needing to use any harmful chemicals. Mirum, developed by Natural Fibre Welding (Bared Footwear), which is made of natural rubber, plant-based oil, natural pigments and minerals, is dubbed the world’s first plastic-free leather alternative, which means that both production as well as development runs smoothly with no fossil-fuelled assets included.
Developing plant-based leather alternatives from industrial waste might prove to be the solution for the developing countries to obtain more production agency and drive economic growth on innovative technology. Piñatex, developed by Ananas Anam (Bohema Clothing, Tender Toes, Nae Vegan), has gained an impressive following in the last two years. Piñatex is made of sun-dried pineapple fibres felted together with a corn-based polyactic acid (PLA), and coated with a water-based polyurethane resin (PU) which is the one that gives the material the much-welcomed longevity and durability. Grape Leather, developed by Vegea® (Pangaia, Bohema Clothing, COG), Apple and Lemon Skin, both developed by VegaTex (Sashay, KIBO, Veerah) are leather alternatives made from food and beverage industry waste and coated with water-based PU. Desserto, which is cactus leather developed by Adriano di Marti (Bohema Clothing, MoEa) has also gained a high fashion following by the likes of Balenciaga and Hublot. Coconut leather, developed by Malai, is 100% biodegradable. Both Corn leather, developed by Viridis® (MoEa, Zette Shoes) as well as Bio-Vera and Bio-Tex, both developed by Modern Meadow, are basically sugar fermentation products, which are significantly more efficient to produce and develop on a mass scale when compared to animal hide. Cork (Nae Shoes, Sorbas), which is gaining it’s fashion momentum as we speak, as well as recycled rubber and waxed fabrics are also the go-to materials to identify if you are looking for a sustainable and vegan pair of shoes. However, where a brand claims to have used recycled rubber (Wasted Shoes, Vivaia), hemp (8000kicks) or organic cotton (Nae Vegan, Genesis Footwear) do keep in mind to check them for the sustainability certificates to support their claims.
LINING
If you have already put some effort into researching a sustainable and animal-friendly outer layer of a shoe, you might want to keep it up with the inner lining as well. The most common materials used for inner shoe lining are cotton, viscose, leather, fleece, nylon and polyester. If we exclude the animal-derived materials, that leaves cotton, viscose, synthetic fleece, nylon and polyester. Add the sustainable category, and we are left with cotton, viscose and hopefully, recycled synthetics. Hemp and bamboo fabric has gained some popularity in the past decade for being organic, durable and breathable, which is basically everything one needs for a both sustainable and high-quality shoe lining. Do look out for the sustainability certificates to support a brand’s everything-friendly claims. Cards on the table, it is quite tempting to cut down a couple of numbers on stuff that is hidden out of plain sight.
INSOLES
If a shoe or insole brand is vegan, they do tend to provide a bunch of useful information on materials, technology, and all the wonders that an insole can provide for one’s feet. The most popular vegan insoles are made from plant fiber (cork, bamboo, coconut etc.) mixed with natural latex and recycled synthetics. The most sustainable versions of EVA foam, which stands for ethylene vinyl acetate, can be either produced from recycled coffee grounds or sugar cane. If you are looking at a leather alternative, a simple piece of information on PCV or PU won’t cut it unless it is backed up with some legit recycling details.
STIFFENERS
You’ve reached the inner circle of wisdom.
Shoe stiffeners are small material components that provide support and structure to enhance a shoe’s fit, stability, and durability. A classic stiffening repertoire includes board lasting, a toe puff, and/or a shank (if present—running and ‘barefoot’ shoes typically do not include shanks), all incorporated into the interior of the shoe. Vamp and eye-stay reinforcements are also common, particularly in footwear designed for athletic or high-impact use. In some cases, stiffeners are added as structural design elements, such as box toes and heel counters.
While leatherboard sheets (made from recycled and compressed leather fibres) remain common stiffening materials, a wide range of non-leather alternatives is also widely used. These include both polyester– and cellulose-based sheets, which can be skived to achieve various thicknesses and levels of softness or rigidity. Cellulose-based materials are particularly valued for their high moisture absorption and dispersal properties—an advantage for shoe reinforcement. Regardless of composition, heat-mouldability is a key characteristic of shoe stiffeners, enabling components to be shaped precisely. Thinner sheets are typically used in the vamp and eye-stay areas, while thicker, more rigid ones are preferred for heel counters and toe puffs.
Shanks may be made from metal—particularly in footwear designed for enhanced durability, such as construction or hiking boots—but plastic (nylon), fibreglass and Kevlar are also commonly used. Cardstock is also used in some designs.
And while it may seem self-evident that a vegan shoe brand would not use leatherboard sheets, and most polyester- and cellulose-based sheets are unlikely to contain animal-derived ingredients, it’s important to recognise that animal-derived ingredients are cheap and widely available—making their way into many unexpected compositions. A self-respecting vegan shoe brand should either clearly disclose the materials used or be willing—and quick—to respond to any enquiries.
Among the materials commonly used on the market, Texon is primarily composed of cellulose and synthetic latex, although some variations—such as the Texon 87 series—are made from polyester. Texon Vogue, produced entirely from cellulose fibre, is certified by The Vegan Society. Other frequently used stiffeners include Talyn and Rinflex. While the specific composition of Talyn is not publicly disclosed, Rinflex is made from polyester and coated with EVA-extruded thermoplastic.
GLUES
A vegan-worthy difference between a synthetic leather pair of shoes and a legit vegan pair of shoes lies as much in the fabrics as it does in the details. Historically, shoe glues (adhesives) were animal-based, and produced from extracting and developing gelatine (flesh/bones/skins etc.) or casein (milk). Nowadays, most shoe companies do use synthetic or semi-synthetic adhesives as they are much more cost-efficient (i.e. cheaper and easier to work with) on a mass scale.
With the rising vegan movement, most companies do provide statements on whether or not they are using animal-derived glue. A company might provide such a statement with regards to either their whole range of products, or a specific product or line. A company is obliged to respond to a customer’s concern on shoe glue (or any other detail for that matter). The Ethical Elephant did a great job reaching out to some of the most popular shoe companies for their statements.
However, audited or not, a legit vegan shoe company should provide some additional information on the type of glue they are using. In most cases, that’d be some non-toxic, water-based glue, and it’s a really good thing to be sure about.