To take part in the race to develop a leather alternative that contains no animal ingredients, is free from polyurethane, and is fully biodegradable is to commit to a long and highly resource-intensive journey, with no guarantee of scalable success. Yet, for the very few who persist, the reward is as real as it is deeply personal. Bio2Materials, a Polish start-up based in Warsaw and founded in 2018 by Katarzyna Szpicmacher, Aleksandra Kantor, and Artur Bartkowiak, has successfully developed Nutico – a new leather alternative made from nutshell and cacao husk waste, without polyurethane – securing it a notable place in two demanding categories: repurposed waste and full biodegradability.
And yes, it’s the very same nutshell and cacao husk used in chocolate-making.
The process
‘Our goal was always to create something without polyurethane, and therefore fully biodegradable,’ says Katarzyna Szpicmacher. ‘There were moments – lots of them, actually – when we almost gave up, wondering whether we should just launch something, anything, to get things moving, form business collaborations first, and then work towards eliminating polyurethane later. It sounded reasonable but felt so, so wrong.’
In 2021, some cuts and reassessments were made to keep the oil burning, but the original commitment – no polyurethane – prevailed. It took seven years from inception to finalising the polyurethane- and water-free formula. Now, the entire process is ready for scaling. ‘This is how we know it works. The aim was never to create a lab marvel, but a fully scalable product.’
The three-step process begins with sourcing local nutshell and cacao husk waste. ‘Local’ is as operative as ‘waste’, as keeping the supply chain as close to the business as possible is another goal the team won’t give up on. ‘Dragging waste halfway across the globe is anything but sustainable.’ The nutshell waste is then processed into granulates, heated, and pressed through a nozzle. The resulting mash is spread onto a backing material – certified cotton, in this case.
The final product consists of two layers made from over a dozen components – none of which include polyurethane or water in the process (‘The resources on our planet are, after all, limited’) or the toxic chemicals typically used to enhance material durability. Nutico has passed all durability and plasticity tests required for use in clothing and accessories. ‘This material is designed for intensive use in shoes, clothing, and bags. We didn’t want to create something with the chemical stability of a packaging sheet,’ says Katarzyna.
The only current limitation the company acknowledges is the colour range. The base material retains the natural earthy tones of the feedstocks. Therefore, if there’s increasing interest in custom shades, Nutico continues to face limitations until fully natural pigmentation solutions are discovered. ‘We won’t compromise on the top layer by adding polyurethane just for colour. That’s a line we’re not willing to cross.’
The story
A vegetarian raised in a home full of animals (‘Mutts are the best!’), Katarzyna’s idealism – or rather firm belief – that business can fully align with personal values has proven just as effective as any traditional business approach. Bio2Materials’ founding story is one of shared values and curiosity. Katarzyna and Aleksandra, both experienced architects, met while working in the same architectural studio – on the top floor, tucked under the eaves.
It didn’t take long to realise they shared much more than a profession: a deep respect for animals and nature, a fascination with science, and a drive to create in a way that was both sustainable and circular. Working on residential architecture, however, didn’t allow them to pursue these goals. So, they decided to try something different.
The first idea was to repurpose apple waste, but as their research into life-cycle impact and waste utilisation deepened, they crossed paths with Professor Artur Bartkowiak—one of Poland’s leading material engineering academics—who would become the company’s third co-founder. Together, the team threw themselves into hands-on experiments with their research and development group. That’s how Bio2Materials was born, with Nutico as its first product.
The way ahead
‘If we’re talking business, then my goal is to keep our Research &Development team running with as little pressure as possible. Having the freedom to conduct your own research is priceless,’ says Katarzyna. ‘The most successful teams are diverse. Because we aren’t trained chemists, we’re often able to think outside the box and take unexpected paths to reach a solution.’
Katarzyna’s and Aleksandra’s architectural background shows in their approach – always thinking several steps ahead, bringing together experts from different fields, and never losing sight of the bigger picture. ‘End-of-life treatment should be considered right at the start of a product’s development. It should be a conscious decision, fully aligned with a designer’s values. After years of wear, we want Nutico to fully biodegrade without releasing any harmful substances into the environment,’ says Katarzyna.
‘End-of-life treatment should be considered right at the start of a product’s development. It should be a conscious decision, fully aligned with a designer’s values,’
Katarzyna Szpicmacher, Bio2Materials
With the multiple pressures that start-ups face to achieve scalability and profitability with their innovative products, Bio2Materials’ refusal to compromise on any of their climate-conscious values is as inspiring as it is a necessary benchmark for any endeavour seeking to market itself as low environmental impact. ‘I believe we’re paving the way for future generations to embrace animal-free and environmentally responsible materials as the norm.’
Photo courtesy of Bio2Materials