Market Update: May 2026

At Vegan Fashion Repository, we keep our ears firmly on the ground, collecting and curating news and insights most relevant to the vegan fashion industry—particularly in material innovation, circularity, accountable sustainability, and consumer behaviour—at the end of every month.

Here’re the highlights of May 2026:

From 5–7 May, more than 1,000 stakeholders from across fashion and adjacent industries gathered in Copenhagen for this year’s Global Fashion Summit, centred on the theme Building Resilient Futures. Across three days of talks, networking, innovation showcases, and leadership dialogues, discussions focused on how the industry can move from ambition to measurable progress — from strengthening the business case for sustainability and scaling textile-to-textile recycling to navigating upcoming regulations and advancing circularity. One recurring message was clear: apparel brands must commit to purchasing agreements — even with caveats around price and scale — to help material innovators unlock funding. There was also a noticeable shift in approach. While some developers previously focused on solutions requiring entirely new infrastructure, many are now designing materials and systems that integrate into existing apparel supply chains.. Global Fashion Agenda

At the Vegan Fashion Repository, we also hosted our own panel discussion on the current state of scaling processes in plant-based and plastic-free material innovation, bringing together material developers, researchers, industry practitioners, and advocates to examine the key technical, regulatory, and market barriers shaping the transition from laboratory development to industrial adoption. The recording of Where Are We Now? Market Opportunities for Bio-based Alternatives to Fur, Leather and Wool is available on YouTube.

High fashion news

This is certainly shaping up to be a strong season for animal-free fashion. Just last month, Kering committed to reducing its use of animal-derived leather by 30% by 2035, while the SS26 season saw a growing runway presence of innovative next-generation materials (Collina Strada and Louis Vuitton — Savian bio-fur by BioFluff, Balenciaga — vegan silk by AMSilk, Stella McCartney — Brewed Protein™ wool alternative by Spiber among the most notable). Now, as the industry moves further into May, the sector continues to build momentum, with a series of major developments across luxury fashion and material innovation.

First of all, Cheetah Stories SA, a luxury vegan high-heel brand, launched a collection of fluffy heels made with Savian by BioFluff, designed by Mark Schwartz. Cheetah Stories

Bottega Veneta released a global collection made from SQIM‘s EPHEA mycelium alternative instead of leather, crafted using its signature intrecciato technique. This ultimately proves that mycelium leather alternatives can be as consistent and structurally reliable as leather itself. The collection was introduced on the brand’s website with no press campaign or announcement. Mycelium leather has been explored by various luxury fashion houses, including Stella McCartney, Hermès, and Balenciaga for the last few years, but Bottega’s approach differs from all of them, because the brand has done something none of the others attempted: it wove it. The collection features wallets, card holders, and keychains and is available here. The Ethos

Four Stella McCartney looks at the Met Gala 2026 accounts for another shining moment (literally) for vegan fashion — despite the hush-hush atmosphere surrounding this year’s gala. Starring: Fevvers, forest-friendly viscose, and Falabella chains. Stella McCartney

On 15 May, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) announced the release of its Voluntary Guidelines on the use of fur during Milano Fashion Week® shows. Taking effect for the September 2026 shows, the council is inviting brands to stop presenting fur and has pledged to no longer promote fur across its own communication and social media channels. It is important to note that this is not a fur ban, but rather a step back from promoting fur. Camera Moda

A prototype boot made entirely from mycelium — including a load-bearing sole — debuted at Milan Design Week, marking a significant step beyond mycelium’s typical role as a surface material. The project combines two years of fungal materials research from Vrije Universiteit Brussel with traditional shoemaking craftsmanship from La Monnaie/De Munt, demonstrating how biology and artisanal skill can be woven together. MycoStories

In similar news, a futuristic new chapter in material innovation was unveiled in Amsterdam last month with the debut of the world’s first lab-grown “T-Rex leather” handbag. Developed by LAB-GROWN LEATHER using reconstructed ancient collagen sequences and advanced tissue engineering, the material represents a move beyond both synthetic and traditional bio-based leather. Positioned initially for the luxury market, the breakthrough highlights growing experimentation with next-generation biomaterials that could redefine performance, traceability, and sustainability in fashion — though commercial scalability and affordability remain challenges. Price tag? It could reportedly reach €575,000. Netherlands Times

Upcycling is also gaining momentum. Kevin Germanier showcased an upcycled haute couture collection in collaboration with LVMH at the Global Fashion Summit — the same collection previously shown during Paris Haute Couture Spring 2026 Fashion Week — crafted from deadstock materials from LVMH, including uniforms from the Paris 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games. Marine Serre also launched an upcycled capsule collection with the Louvre Museum. The limited-edition collection draws directly from the museum’s archives, centring on one of its most reproduced works: Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. The three-piece capsule transforms the museum’s most recognisable artwork into wearable form. Vogue, WWD

Material news

Great news (again!) — SHIRINGA by Collective Fashion Justice won at Canada’s International Fashion Film Festival, while an editorial featuring Shiringa bio-leather was also published. As we continue connecting the fashion industry with Caxacori Studio — which produces bio-leather from tree sap regeneratively collected by Indigenous communities — our film about the project continues to receive international recognition. At Vegan Fashion Repository, we wrote about Shiringa in our February story: Follow The Tree: The Story Of Shiringa, The Bio-Leather Made From Amazonian Tree Sap. Collective Fashion Justice

The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research (DITF) are breaking new ground with the production of staple fibre yarns made from cellulose. Using the HighPerCell® process — patented by DITF — high-quality textile yarns for the apparel sector are produced from cellulose continuous filaments. The research and development project, launched under the name “InnoCell”, offers the apparel industry and consumers a particularly sustainable product through its closed-loop recycling system and low carbon footprint. DITF

A new US cotton life cycle assessment claims cotton fibre can deliver a negative greenhouse gas footprint when biogenic carbon flows are included. The study, released by Cotton Incorporated, reports cradle-to-gate fossil emissions of 1.45 kg CO2e per kg of cotton fibre, but a modelled net result of -0.264 kg CO2e when soil and fibre carbon storage are included. Apparel Insider

Polyester cost tracking is now a margin-critical activity. Polyester is the most widely used fibre in apparel, and even small price changes can materially impact FOB pricing and margins. Cost tracking has evolved from a sourcing task into a commercial necessity. Feedstock and fibre-level movements often precede yarn and fabric price revisions, giving apparel companies that monitor upstream signals early warning and negotiation leverage. Fibre2Fashion

The Bezos Earth Fund committed $34 million to developing plastic-free fabrics. The funding is split across four institutions, each targeting a different part of the materials challenge. Columbia University and the Fashion Institute of Technology will share $11.5 million to grow a textile fibre from bacteria fed on agricultural waste. University of California, Berkeley will receive $10 million for a high-performance biodegradable fibre modelled on spider silk. Times of India

Business & Resale news

Perhaps the most disturbing news of the month: Shein is buying Everlane. Everlane’s CEO confirmed the sale in a letter to employees and stated that the company would remain committed to its sustainability goals. The letter, obtained by the Associated Press, confirmed the deal on Friday. Everlane was founded in 2011 by Michael Preysman and Jesse Farmer with a mission to produce eco-friendly and affordable clothing. The acquisition comes at a time when Everlane is struggling financially. According to Neil Saunders, Managing Director of GlobalData Retail, sales have declined and debt has mounted. He noted that the company needs new ownership to survive and that Shein can provide the required financial stability. Neither company disclosed the value of the deal, though Puck reported last weekend that it was worth approximately $100 million. Puck, The Guardian, Wired

Lacey Cadieux-McLean, PMP, founder and CEO of Rhubaia Ventures, has launched Rhubaia — a fashion-tech ecosystem combining a sustainably made women’s professional clothing line with an AI-powered virtual wardrobe app. Garments are made from organic cotton, bamboo, banana plant fibres, and eucalyptus-based leather alternatives, with biodegradable packaging and a transparent supply chain. Yahoo Finance

Vinted is now the third-largest retailer in the UK and is valued at €8 billion. Earlier this year, it was reported that Vinted overtook Zara as the UK’s second-largest fashion retailer by volume. The RealReal reported strong Q1 2026 results, including 19% year-on-year revenue growth and a 24% increase in GMV. As resale continues booming and reshaping both economics and consumer behaviour discourse, ThredUp reported a 15% year-on-year increase in revenue for Q1 2026. Quarterly revenue reached $81.7 million, while gross margin rose to 79.2%. Vinted, The Real Real, ThredUp

Legislation news

This section begins with bad news. On 4 May 2026, the European Commission proposed excluding leather, along with hides and skins, from the scope of the EU Deforestation Regulation (EUDR). The decision forms part of a “simplification package” unveiled on 4 May 2026 and intended to ease administrative burdens. The move follows intense industry pressure, with the final consultation remaining open until 1 June 2026, ahead of the regulation’s implementation for larger companies on 30 December 2026. European Commission

On 22 May, the EU passed its first-ever comprehensive legislation establishing unified standards for the welfare, breeding, and traceability of dogs and cats. The law aims to curb illegal trafficking, improve living conditions, and prevent abusive breeding practices across the Union. Consilium Europa

The European Commission’s Joint Research Centre has published the most detailed vision to date of what the Digital Product Passport for textiles will include. The report describes the DPP as “the central tool for operationalising information requirements” under the ESPR framework. European Commission

Education news

Collective Fashion Justice launched a biodiversity and fashion education programme for school-age students in partnership with Fashion Takes Action. The free curriculum guide for students aged 10–14 (available in two age-appropriate versions) includes classes, resources, and videos to help students explore biodiversity through the lens of fashion. The programme forms part of Fashion Takes Action’s My Clothes My World initiative, aligned with the United Nations’ Greening Curriculum guidance and climate action teaching principles. Collective Fashion Justice

Similarly, the German Fashion Council released an educational programme designed to teach students about responsible fashion, featuring Emma Håkansson, founder of Collective Fashion Justice. Generation Future: Fashion and Impact is an interactive bilingual (DE/EN) e-learning course offering both a critical and empowering examination of the fashion industry. Each of the five modules features interviews with experts, while the “Fashion and People” section — covering working conditions, supply chains, social responsibility, and animal protection — includes Collective Fashion Justice’s founding director. re.Fashion Academy, Collective Fashion Justice

May releases

• Bloomsbury released the new Fashion in Action series of short books on key global issues in fashion.
• CNN released an investigation into India’s textile recycling industry in Panipat
• Global Fashion Agenda presented Fashion Redressed II, a new set of stories produced by BBC StoryWorks Commercial Productions which explore how the industry is being reimagined from the inside out.
• A debut film, The Dying Trade, by Jack Hancock-Fairs, vegan activist and YouTuber, exposes the ‘Hidden Human Cost’ Of The Meat Industry
• Vojtech Vosecky launched The Circularity Library – and every growing resource bank of podcast, documentaries, books and TED Talks on circular economy

New reports

• 2030 Circularity Blueprint by Global Fashion Agenda
• Fashion CFO Agenda 2026: Building Financial Resilience Through Sustainability by Boston Consulting Group and Global Fashion Agenda
• The New Resale Marketing Playbook by The Business of Fashion
• The New Bottom Line by The Ellen MacArthur Foundation
• Future Consumer 2028: The Restorers by WGSN
• Alternative Plant Fibre Landscape Analysis by FIBRAL (the Global Plant Fibre Association)

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At Vegan Fashion Repository, we consult multiple sources and always cite them for transparency and traceability. Some we trust particularly and recommend wholeheartedly. For more sustainability- and circularity-focused fashion news, we strongly encourage you to follow Lydia Brearley (This Is Enkel).

Cheers!